Surfer Gary...what can you say about that guy? Whenever I ask if you know Surfer Gary, I describe his big red beard, and if you don't know him, once you meet him you will never forget him.

He has been a big part of my life starting about three years ago, when he took me out surfing the first time. The waves were about 6 inches. Maybe a foot on a good set. Plenty for a beginner like me. That day changed my entire life. When you surf, you look at everything differently. You see the ocean in a completely different light. It is now a force to ride. You watch the tides, ask about whether it is a sand, coral or rock bottom, and feel which direction the wind is going. It all affects how the waves are. You get excited for hurricanes because it will bring the swell. I will never live in another place without a coastline. I just don't think I could live without waves again.

Gary has taught me how to read all the elements to make sure I'm going out on optimal days. He has taught me to have fun even on days when you cannot catch a thing, which, when you first start is often! Surfing is a very self-centered sport: it is you out there on your wave, and no one else can have it when you are on it. Despite that fact, Gary will be out there whooping and hollering for everyone, even strangers. And if you miss a wave or someone snatches it from you, he will say, “Don't worry, there’s more coming!” Always positive. I always hope whenever I go out surfing, Gary can be there, too. He always makes the day better with his positivity and support.

About a month after I started, he took me over to Apple Bay on Tortola. They were my first real waves, and God knows I was excited and so nervous. It was a good day with head high to over head sets. I don't think I'd seen them that big before. About 20 minutes into it, I got my first wave! It was awesome! But.... I made a fatal mistake. Instead of turning down the wave, I went straight, right into some sea urchins. Ouch. I started paddling back out to the boat. Their spines were everywhere—in my hands and sticking out of my feet. Those little buggers sting! Gary followed me out to the boat and we proceeded to cut my feet open and dig those suckers out. I was so bummed! But I mostly don't want to disappoint my friend. So after doing what we could for my feet, I jumped back into the water. I could tell Gary was happy I didn't give up (I'm too stubborn to anyway!) and we surfed for the next 5 hours. After getting home that night exhausted, I tried to sleep, but every time I closed my eyes, all I could see were waves and I couldn't wait to be back out there!

So another few months went by. I still had yet to own my first surfboard. Gary would always let me borrow one of his. A 7'4'' fish, baby blue in color. After seeing how determined I was about surfing, he offered me that board. So we bartered. He gives me the board, and I give him my car. Oh, and I gave him an extra $100. Best deal ever.

I've been surfing for 3 years now and have been to Costa Rica twice. Those trips have changed my whole perspective on the sport. I stayed in a little town down on the southern coast. Gary had just been there for a couple weeks, and we had just missed each other. When I'd go out, I asked people if they remember him. Everyone responded "Big red beard?" So memorable. And I heard he recruited some tourist girls to teach how to surf, so he had an entourage on his vacation!  It is in his blood to spread the surfing love!

There are some days when I’ll go out surfing on St. John,  look out on the water, and see only girls on the waves. I've been to plenty of places where I will be the only girl out there, riding the waves with all guys (a big ol' sausage party, if I may). I realize how Gary has changed this island, giving the girls of this little rock the confidence and know-how to play in this life changing sport.  I once heard a guy say, "The wave is no place for girls." Um, correction...we make this wave look good!  And I have Gary to thank. Thank you for changing my life, Gary! You are the man!

I took my first lesson with Gary in July 2009. I had been on island a few days visiting my mom when a friend back in Texas called distressed because she had lost her job that morning. Maybe it was the shock that allowed for such impulsiveness, but it required little convincing before she'd booked her tickets to see me: the next day, we were sitting on the porch drinking Dark & Stormies. In my opinion (and speaking from experience), St. John offers the best diversions to treat the OMG-I- just-lost-my-job emotional state. We snorkeled, hiked, swam, read--anything to prevent dwelling on the reality of joblessness. Being the middle of summer, there were some waves on the south shore and my mom suggested my friend and I take a surfing lesson. She had met Surfer Gary at Gifft Hill School and said teaching girls to surf was his favorite thing to do. Why not? It sounded fun, so I called him and set up a time to meet in a couple days.

When we arrived, Gary was out in the water giving a lesson to a boy whose father was watching from the shore. It turned out they were regular visitors to St. John and had heard of Gary by word-of-mouth, too (that’s really the only way to hear about him).

We started on the beach, practicing standing up on the surfboard cover. When Gary thought we were ready (not sure we really were), we took turns on the board and he helped us each paddle out and catch waves. Lacking any elegance and balance, we fell off the board more than we stayed on and swallowed a lot of water; but we managed to stand up and ride a wave in legitimately at least once.

We had a great time and I wish I could say I was addicted from day one, but a few days later I had to return to land-locked Dallas. My inner surfer girl lay dormant until I moved to St. John in April and started taking lessons with Gary every week or so. My gracefulness hasn't improved much, but I'm making progress and am lucky Gary is a patient teacher!